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Ask Steve Wilson

Browse through Steve's most commonly asked questions in the custom tailoring industry.

• 2 button coat or 3 button coat?

  2 button coats are the choice of most American men because they show more of the shirt and tie, and most 2 button coats are made with more waist suppression, allowing for a trimmer appearance. A new trend which has emerged is the “trim silhouette.” It differs from the traditional 2 button in that it is much more “fitted” and the shoulders are narrower, giving a very slim appearance. It also works well as a 3 button.

  The traditional 3 button jacket is usually more “box like” in appearance and the buttons are higher on the coat showing less shirt and tie. 3 button coats are more traditional, generally with “natural shoulders.”

• Pleated or plain front slacks?

  For years the trend in slacks heavily favored pleated front slacks. Whether 1, 2 or 3 pleats, men enjoy the extra comfort provided by wearing pleated slacks. In addition, other pleats such as inverted and box are available.

  However, in the last couple of years, especially with younger men, plain front slacks have returned in a big way and now rival pleated slacks as the favorite.

  Bottom line: So for now anyway, they are both in style.

• Cuffs or no cuffs?

  In reality, not much "stuff" ends up in the bottom of cuffed trousers, so that isn't a reason to shy away from cuffs. It is as simple as this: cuffs are more traditional. It used to be that cuffed slacks were worn shorter, but today there is no difference in length. Which ever you prefer is fine.

• Which "vent" in the back of the coat is best?

  There are 3 different "vent" choices. The number one choice is the "center vent," followed by the "ventless" model and then "side" vents. If you are looking for more comfort when sitting, then the "center" vent is for you. On the other hand, the "ventless" coat gives a trimmer appearance. "Side" vented coats are strictly a fashion statement and seem to be out of style most of the time.

• Summer weight or winter weight?

  In the "OLD" days, men and women wore different weight clothing depending on the weather. Summer or light weight clothing in the warm months and winter or heavy weight clothing in the cold months. Today, this is usually not the case. Most people prefer clothing that can be worn all-year around. With most places being climate-controlled, this makes sense. In addition, with special fabrics that have been introduced, it is not necessary to run to the closet when the temperature changes.

• Which shirt collar is right for me?

  Most men choose the same collar style for their shirts over and over. That is OK, but many times they choose the style that is not right for their body type. It's simple! If you are thin with a long neck, choose a collar with a medium or wider "spread." ("Spread" is the difference between the points of the collar). If you are heavy with a shorter neck, choose a collar with a medium or narrower spread.

  Point length is also a factor. The average is 2 3/4" to 3". If you are tall and thin with a long neck you should stay away from long point collars as these will accentuate your long neck, while if you are a heavy man with a short neck or "no" neck you should stay away from short point collars as these will accentuate your short neck.

• How about shirt cuffs?

  There are many, many cuff styles from which to choose. It boils down to this. If you prefer "French" cuffs, that's what you should wear. If you prefer "regular" cuffs, go for it. Both are right for business, but most men prefer "regular" cuffs for casual wear. As far as how many buttons? Miltered or straight? Convertible or not? It is all a matter of preference.

• Monograms?

  When you purchase custom made shirts you will be asked if you want monograms. In other words, your initials somewhere on the shirt. Some people say it is too snobbish, but so what? If you are having shirts made just for you, monograms are a great finishing touch. Where you put them is your choice, with placement on the left cuff being the most popular. There are many styles of monograms, so pick what you like, and make sure the color goes with the shirt.

• To tie or not to tie?

  For many generations, men have always worn a tie with their suits. Today, however, you have a choice. You should always wear a tie when in a business setting where business attire is expected. But, the rest of the time it is up to you. And when wearing a sport coat, do what you like.

  There is such a wide range of styles, designs and colors available in ties, it is hard to select the right one. Guess what? That is what your partner can help you with.

• Casual versus dress?
  In today's world it is not easy to determine if the situation calls for casual attire or dress. If you are not sure, it is best to favor being "over" dressed. The worst that will happen is that you will have to take off your coat and tie. In a business setting, unless you are positive casual is OK, wear that suit and tie.